Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Akwaaba!

Akwaaba is the first word that greets you when you arrive in Ghana. That and the Africa Cup of Nations. I managed to arrive in Accra on the day of the final of the biggest event of the year and it is obvious. Funnily enough I have done this before. Four years ago I arrived in Lisbon the day after Portugal lost the Eurocup final to Greece. The thing that struck me then was the bountiful flag waving everywhere. It's the same here now. Almost every car, building or shop salutes the Black Stars of Ghana. They didn't win the Cup but that somehow does not seem to matter much.

The other thing that greets you is the heat. I know it is a cliché but it is hard not to notice the oppressive heat that envelopes you as soon as you leave the air-conditioned shelter of the airport. Ghana is still on the northern hemisphere but so close to the equator it really does not make much difference that it is 'winter'. The only relief from time to time comes from the Harmattan which is still blowing.

My work schedule hasn't allowed me much time yet to see the more touristy side of Accra although in a way that has made it more interesting. I find myself in places tourists have no business being and get to see a more rounded picture of the city that way. I do stick out like a sore thumb in many of these places though: an abroni in heels and brandishing a laptop. I have never more wished to be a Chameleon.

During my interviews I am at times still struggling with the Ghanaian flavour of English. As a former British colony, English is the official language of Ghana but it is peppered with many other local languages and pronounced in a tongue quite distinct from my one. The theft of my digital recorder does not help since now I only can listen to everything once. I can't keep asking people to repeat themselves the whole time! It is challenging but the people I speak with all make it quite easy for me as they seem more than happy to meet with me and take time out of their busy schedules. I have my next appointment in a few hours when I am expected at the Ministry of Health. I better start preparing...

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