It is probably true for many parts of Africa but from my limited experience I can assure you that, at least in Ghana, the missionaries of the old days have succeeded astonishingly well in their attempts to bring The Book to the ‘dark continent’. Although the Northern part of Ghana is chiefly Muslim, the more southern parts are dominated by Christianity and my, these are some very Christian people indeed! Many of the cars, and in particular the tro-tros, aptly carry slogans such as “Go with God” and “Trust in Jesus”. Perhaps sound advice given the state of most of these vehicles.
Being driven around in taxis a lot means I get to strike up some interesting conversations with the drivers. Aside from the obvious “where are you from”, “how long are you in Ghana” and let’s not forget the infamous “do you have a husband” (so far I have only been proposed to twice but then again: I often lie to that question), three times now I have been asked what church I attend. I will invent a fake husband if I need to but this is a question I feel compelled to answer honestly. In the eyes of many Ghanaians though I am telling them the unthinkable when I explain that I do not belief in God at all. The looks of disbelief I receive are quite amusing. They cannot understand that I choose to live a life without God. I have tried explaining that my whole family and many of my friends feel the same way but this only widens the gap between us further. One of them even offered to bring me to his own church, so desperate was he to point out to me the error of my ways.
Most taxi drivers are very friendly and I have a small collection of phone numbers of these guys who insist I call them if I want somebody to show me around Accra; a kind offer but one I am likely to decline. Somewhere in this city though I now know there will be three people praying for the redemption of my damned atheist soul.
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3 comments:
nice to see your trip has been so inspirational for your blog! all my taxi drivers in LA seemed to be armenian, i got right into their good books by mentioning that we had visited... they all went off into raptures of the homeland quite quickly!
Oh, but our continent is an exception!
The other day someone told me I was brave for putting "atheist" on my Facebook profile, "because people hate atheists." (It's actually not true; it says "agnostic".) I was baffled by this comment -- I mean, it was certainly not intended as an act of braveness or provocation, just the truth -- but the person who told me this explains his profile says "Catholic", even though he maintains he isn't Catholic except culturally. In (some? most?) religious societies it is apparently inconceivable that someone would confess to not believing in God. It's almost equated to worshiping the Devil. From that perspective, it may make sense to make something up on those occasions as well. "My family is Christian" or whatever. You could even go all out, while you're at it: "I married a Catholic husband."
Keep up the good stories!
I know I could avoid these discussions by blatantly lying but for some reason I just don't see why I should. It would make me feel like I am less entitled to be an atheist than they are to be Christian. Call me a zealous atheist! :-) The catholic husband is an imaginative touch, could keep that in mind.
Did not know you were on FB by the way, will have to add you to my friends then!
The Ghana stories are almost at a close: leaving tomorrow night...
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